Beacon Basingstoke Roofing

Roofers in Lychpit

Lychpit lies 2.9 road miles north-east of Basingstoke, a housing development begun in the early 1980s inside Old Basing's parish. Its roofs are now around forty years old, and the wear shows at the ridge, the felt and the timber edges. We photograph your own roof first, then put a price you can hold us to on paper.

An Edwardian red-brick detached house with clay tile roof and tile-hung gables in north Hampshire

Roofs we see in Lychpit

  • House roof stripped to battens during a roof replacement

    Early 1980s estate houses

    Lychpit was laid out as one planned development, so streets of similar semis and detached houses age together. Concrete interlocking tiles over softwood battens were the usual covering on estates of that era, and the ridge and verge were pointed in mortar. After four decades, the mortar and the original underlay tend to fail well before the tiles themselves do.

  • A row of Victorian terraced houses with Welsh slate roofs and brick chimneys in Reading

    Flat roofs on garages and porches

    Look along a typical close and you will see small flat roofs: garage tops, porch canopies, flat-topped bays and kitchen extensions. Many began life as bitumen felt on a timber deck. They are cheap to cover and easy to ignore, which is why a damp garage ceiling is often the first sign anyone has that the roof above it gave up some time ago.

  • A Georgian brick town house with a slate roof and parapet in a Hampshire market town

    Older buildings beside the estate

    Next to Lychpit stands Old Basing, where the roofs are a different story. Bartons Mill, a Grade II listed timber-framed watermill on the River Loddon, is clad in elm. Older cottages and outbuildings in the village sit under clay tile or slate, and they need like-for-like repair and different materials from the estate houses a few minutes away.

2.9 road miles north-east of Basingstoke

Planning and building control in Lychpit

For both planning and building control, Lychpit answers to Basingstoke and Deane Borough Council. The estate itself is modern, but it sits beside Old Basing, and the council's conservation area appraisal for that village names Bartons Mill, the Grade II listed 17th-century watermill on the Loddon. Whether your address falls inside a conservation area boundary is a question for the council's planning team, and it is worth asking before you order materials for a house near the village edge. Our notes on roof work in a conservation area and roof work on a listed building explain what changes the answer.

For an ordinary estate house, the usual question is building control rather than planning. A repair or a small re-cover normally needs no application, but stripping and re-covering a large part of the roof can be notifiable to building control, a step we handle on your behalf. The ground here was surveyed for archaeology before the houses went up, but re-roofing does not disturb the ground. If a loft room with a new roof window is on your list, read whether a skylight needs planning permission before you plan the layout.

What we find on Lychpit roofs

A roof built in the early 1980s has reached the age where small, predictable faults start to add up. Houses put up in the same years were roofed in similar ways, so a fault on one Lychpit roof is often worth checking for on the next.

Chapter 1: Why is the ridge on our Lychpit house shedding mortar after forty years?

What we find

Houses put up in the 1980s were generally finished with a mortar-bedded ridge: capping tiles laid along the apex in a trough of sand and cement. The verge, which is the sloping edge of the roof at a gable end, was pointed in the same way instead of being clipped. After four decades of frost, sun and rain, mortar like that shrinks away from the tile and breaks into crumbs.

You tend to notice it from the ground first: grey grit in the gutter, a ridge tile sitting proud of its neighbours, or a hairline gap along a gable edge. Inside the loft, look along the underside of the ridge for daylight, or a dry trail of mortar dust on the felt. Wind does the rest, because a loosened ridge tile can lift in a gust and land on a drive or a car.

What we fix

First we lift a handful of ridge tiles and judge the tile itself. On estates of this age it is normally the bedding that has let go, not the concrete. The standard has changed since the houses were built: BS 5534 asks for a mechanical fixing at the ridge, the hips and the verges, so a plain re-bed in mortar is not what we would recommend. A dry-fix ridge uses a continuous batten, clips or screws and a vented roll, and a dry verge uses caps that clamp over the tile ends.

One scaffold serves the whole elevation, so doing ridge and verges together is usually better value than separate visits. Reported UK prices for dry-fixing the ridge of a semi sit between £900 and £1,600, with scaffold adding £300 to £900 on top of that. Your fixed quote follows the survey. To see how the job runs, read ridge tile repairs; and our guide to roof tiles lifting in the wind helps if a gust has already shifted something.

Chapter 2: The felt on our flat garage roof in Lychpit has blistered. Is it a repair or a new roof?

What we find

Plenty of Lychpit houses have an attached garage, a porch canopy or a flat-topped bay, and those small roofs were often covered in bitumen felt (a roll material laid in layers and bonded with heat or adhesive) over a timber deck. Felt of that age is well past its design life. The surface crazes like old paint, the laps open, and the edge where it turns over the front drip lifts away from the board. Blisters are pockets of trapped moisture or air under the top layer.

Inside, the clue may be a stain on the garage ceiling or a damp corner where the garage meets the house wall. If the deck has been wet for a while, the plywood or chipboard underneath turns soft and spongy and flexes when pressed from below. Water also tracks along the junction with the house wall, where a failed flashing (the strip sealing the roof edge to the brickwork) lets it in.

What we fix

A patch can work where a small area of felt has blistered and the deck beneath is dry and firm. We cut out the blister, dry the deck and bond new layers in with generous overlaps. Where the felt is crazed all over, or the boards have gone soft, patching only delays the same call-out, and the photo report shows it. A full re-cover means stripping to the deck, replacing soft boards and checking what the insulation rules require before the new covering goes on.

The new membrane is usually EPDM (a synthetic rubber supplied as one large sheet) or GRP, a fibreglass-and-resin surface that is brushed on wet and sets rigid. Typical UK prices for re-covering one garage in EPDM sit between £1,200 and £2,500, depending on size and access. Choosing between the materials is easier with our comparison of EPDM, GRP and felt, and our flat roofing page covers the work itself.

Chapter 3: Why are the fascias and bargeboards on our Lychpit house rotting?

What we find

The timber at the edges of a 1980s roof was usually softwood, primed once and painted at intervals by successive owners. The fascia is the board along the eaves that carries the gutter. The bargeboard follows the sloping edge of a gable, and the soffit is the panel closing the gap beneath the eaves. Rot starts where paint has cracked and water has found the end grain, typically at joints and at the low corners where a gutter has overflowed for years.

Overflow is often the root cause. A gutter blocked with leaf litter, or one that sags between brackets, spills over the board instead of carrying water to the downpipe. Signs to look for are flaking paint, black staining, gaps at the mitred corners and wood that gives under a screwdriver. A soft soffit is also an open door for wasps and nesting birds.

What we fix

Where only short lengths have failed, we cut out the bad timber and fit new boards that match. Where the whole run has gone, replacing it in uPVC with new gutters is usually the practical answer, because the gutters have to come off to reach the boards anyway. Capping sound timber with new uPVC is sometimes possible, but we check the board behind the cover first, since a cap over rot only hides it. If birds are nesting in the soffit, work waits until they have finished.

A full uPVC roofline on a semi typically costs between £1,800 and £3,500 in the ranges reported across the UK, while hiring scaffold for the job is reported at anything between £200 and £2,600, depending on the house and the height. For the choice itself, read rotten fascia boards and fascia capping versus replacement.

Chapter 4: Why does moss keep coming back on our Lychpit roof near the River Loddon?

What we find

The Loddon runs beside Lychpit at Bartons Mill, and houses nearer the river valley or backing onto mature planting stay damp for longer after rain. Concrete tiles are slightly porous, so a roof that sits in shade holds moisture, and moss takes hold on the north-facing slope first. The moss lifts the surface of the tile, packs into the laps between courses and holds water against the battens beneath.

It does not stay on the roof. Clumps wash down into the gutters and block the outlets, which then overflow onto the fascia and bring back the rot described above. A thick mat of moss is also heavy when it is saturated, and frost working into it can break the corners off tiles. If you can see green or black patches from the pavement, the gutters below are almost certainly carrying moss debris too.

What we fix

We clear moss by hand with brushes and scrapers, then treat the tiles with a biocide that keeps working for months after the visit. We avoid pressure washing on older concrete tiles, because the jet can strip the coloured surface layer and leave the tile more porous than before. The gutters are cleared in the same visit, and we note any cracked tiles or failed ridge mortar that the moss had been hiding.

Reported UK prices for hand removal with biocide run from £748 for a small roof to £978 for a large one, according to one UK cost guide. Moss will return if the shade stays, so we also tell you whether pruning an overhanging branch would help. Our roof cleaning page explains what is involved and how often a roof in damp surroundings needs attention.

Lychpit roofing questions

Lychpit was surveyed for archaeology before it was built. Can that hold up roof work?

No. The archaeological survey concerned the ground before the estate was built, and a re-roof works on the building above it. Scaffolding sits on the surface and does not disturb the soil. If you are planning groundworks, such as a new extension foundation, ask the council's planning team. For repairs to tiles, ridges and flashings, nothing about the site's history changes how we work.

Our roof is around forty years old. Should we be planning to replace it?

Age alone does not decide it. Concrete tiles on 1980s houses often have years left, and the first things to fail are the ridge mortar, the underlay and the eaves timber. We check the felt from the loft and look at the battens before giving an opinion. If a repair will do, we say so, and our written 10-year workmanship guarantee covers the work. Our roof replacement page explains when a new roof is the honest answer.

Does the Grade II listing of Bartons Mill affect roof work on nearby houses?

The listing protects the mill itself, not its neighbours. What can affect a nearby house is whether it lies within the Old Basing conservation area, because that brings tighter control over changes to materials and appearance. The council's planning team can confirm your boundary. Like-for-like repair is usually straightforward in either case, and our conservation area notes cover the detail.

Can you fit a roof window into the loft of a 1980s Lychpit house?

Usually, yes. Concrete tile roofs of this period take roof windows well, though we check the rafter spacing and the headroom from inside before recommending a size. A loft conversion brings Building Regulations questions beyond the window itself, and our roof window building regulations guide explains them before you commit to anything.

A tile blew off in a storm and the loft is damp. What should we do first?

Stay off the roof. Photograph the damage from the ground, move belongings away from the wet area and put a bucket under any drip. Then ring 01256 213956, or send us a WhatsApp message with the photos. We prioritise emergency calls and will make a leaking roof safe first, then explain what a lasting repair involves. Our emergency roof repairs page has more on what to expect.

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Tell us what’s happening and we’ll call you back to arrange a visit. You’ll get photos of your roof and a fixed written quote.

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