Chapter 1: Can the plain clay tile roof on our old cottage near the church be patched rather than stripped?
What we find
Plain tile roofs have a particular way of going wrong. The tiles are small and curved slightly across their width, laid in overlapping courses so that each course covers the joints of the one below. At the eaves the bottom course is doubled up, to tilt the water into the gutter, and along the hips (the sloping external angles) special bonnet tiles, or lead, close the join. These are the parts that move and crack first, because they carry the most water and the most wind.
You can see the trouble from the lane: a tile out of line, a dark gap in the eaves course, or a hip that has opened along its length. Inside the loft, a lit pinhole along a rafter shows where a tile has cracked or shifted. Because the tiles are small, one broken tile causes a leak of its own size, which makes the fault easy to miss until the plaster stains.
What we fix
In most cases patching is the right answer and a full strip is not. We lift the affected courses, replace cracked tiles with reclaimed ones of the same colour and camber, and renew any batten that has softened. New fixings go in where old nails have rusted, and the eaves and hip details are reset so they shed water properly. Sound tiles are kept and relaid, which also keeps the roof looking like part of the village.
If the roof has lost its underlay or a whole slope has dropped, we propose lifting and relaying that section with a breathable membrane below. That work is carried out slope by slope, so the house is never open to the weather for long. Our pitched roofing service covers re-covers, and our team will explain the choice between patching and relaying with your own photographs in hand.